true smart battery isolator versus proline isolator

TRUE SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR VERSUS PROLINE ISOLATOR INSTALL

IF you don't mind buying addition wire and a hole saw (if you don't already have them anyway), then the kit looks like a pretty good deal!īattery Charging Caveat: This applies to all dual battery setups, isolator and parallel. IF you are OK with the limited information from the meters, and IF you don't, mind drilling two, 1 1/8' holes in your dash, and IF the included cables are long enough for your application, and

So the only time you'll be able to see the actual state of the batteries is when you turn the ignition to the 'on' (not run) position. That is the purpose of the included relay, it cuts the power to the meters when the key is off to prevent the meters from draining the batteries. If you shut down the motor but leave the key in the on position, the meters will show the individual voltage of each battery. If the meters show a different voltage, you'll know that the primary battery is receiving all the charge from the voltage regulator.

Although it won't show the actual voltage of the batteries, it is kind of handy in that as long as the 13.4v show on both meters, you'll know the isolator is working properly.

Since the meters are connected directly to the batteries, what they will show while the engine is running is the output of the charging system, not the actual voltage of the batteries, except for a very short time right after you start the engine-you'll see the actual voltage of the aux battery for a short time but once the isolator opens, both meters will show around 13.4v - the voltage coming into the batteries from the voltage regulator. You'll probably have add more wire.Īlthough I have a voltage meter in my RZR (a single meter that serves both batteries - details later), the usefulness is rather limited. If that is case, 8' isn't going to come close to having enough for batteries that live under the seat! If the instructions call for just running a positive lead to the meters, then using a nearby (near the meters) chassis ground, you may have enough, but I kinda doubt it. Normally you run two leads (+,-) from each battery to each meter. Not quite sure how True Am recommends you make that connection. The kit comes with 8' of wire to hook up the meters. The meters are 33mm (1.29921 inches) and require that drill two 29mm (1.14173 inch) holes in your dash, plus, if you don’t have one, you'll need a 29mm (1 1/8') hole saw. One down side of the meters is they take up a lot of dash real estate. Voltage Meters/Relay: One REALLY nice feature of the kit is the inclusion of two voltage meters one for each battery. My bigger point with the cable discussion is to ensure that the provided cables will be long enough for your needs so you don't end up tossing them and having to go to the expense for buying/making longer ones. I doubt if Polaris would care one way or the other-just nice to know info! Of course, I could be wrong and maybe True Am is using some other type of automotive cable that does meet the SAE specs with the cross linked insulation rather than the typical welding cable that uses the less tough (and less heat and chemical resistant) PVC insulation. If you replace the battery cables with in your truck with welding cable, it would void your warranty. But it should be noted that welding wire does not meet the SAE J-1128 (under the hood, high temp wiring) standard. This makes me suspicious that True Am is now using welding cable rather than the automotive SXL or SGX standard battery cables.

They are supposed to more flexible and easier to work with. The red cables go from the isolator to each of the two battery's poitive posts-will the 12' and 18' cables work for where you mount the isolator and the batteries? I have also read that True Am has improved the cables form earlier kits. Will the 3 included cables be long enough? The black cable will connect neg on the primary battery to the neg on 2nd battery.

TRUE SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR VERSUS PROLINE ISOLATOR INSTALL

First of all, I'm sure if you buy this kit and install it according to the manufactures instructions, it will work great! I'm really excited about the UTV-SBI-15 (the actual isolator less the cables, meters, and relay) the design makes sense, especially the fact (mfgr claim) that is waterproof and shock proof, most other isolators have to be mounted high to keep water out of them.Ĭables: You should go ahead and choose the battery that will be your new aux (2nd) battery and determine where and how you will mount it.

True smart battery isolator versus proline isolator